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HYDROPONICS DRIP SYSTEM
Building the PVC Stand
Build a Small Hydroponics Drip System
Part 2: Cutting the PVC Stand
If you have just arrived at this website looking for a hydroponics drip system, you
might want to go back to
page one of this mini-farm plan.
NOW, carry on building this baby!
First cut and assemble the PVC stand. Please follow instructions carefully
in the order suggested.
Surely we don't need to remind you to use safety goggles and take care when cutting. And never forget: alcohol and power tools do not mix. Trust me, I know!
Cutting schedule for hydroponics drip system unit
Cut pieces of the 1½” schedule 40 PVC pipe to
the following lengths. Lightly file or sand the cut edges to remove burrs:
1 pc 31” long
1 pc 35-¼” long
1 pc 18” long
1 pc 17-½” long
1 pc 16-½” long
1 pc 16” long
2 pcs. 5” long
1 pc. 6” long
1 pc 2” long
2. Next, a word about PVC cement.
You will apply a nice coat of glue to each PVC piece before pushing them
together. Once you attach them together, you have all of 5 seconds to
get it seated properly before a permanent and unbreakable bond is set.
you screw it up, throw in the trash and start over. (Hence the advice to buy a
couple extra elbows and t-piece).
You are going to assemble and glue up
the back drain pipe first. This is by far the trickiest part of the whole
operation. Listen carefully to avoid a trip back to Home Depot.
To form the back drain rail, you will
need the 31” pipe, the 2” pipe, and the “T” piece. This pipe is what will
collect the drainage from your pots, and so it needs to be sealed off on both
ends so the fluids won't run down into the legs of your stand. (This will also
make more sense to you once you start putting things together).
First study the
drawing below. See how you need to block off the inside of the tube at the elbow
and “t” piece (at the RED STOPS) so there is only one small restricted chamber
for fluid drainage?
So you will need to insert a waterproof “block” at the elbow on the left and the
outside port of the “T” piece. You can use whatever inert (plastic) material you
can find and seal it off with aquarium grade silicone sealant.
blocked ours off with 2” wide styrofoam circles cut from building insulation.
You could cut 2” circles from an old Styrofoam ice chest, or whatever works! See
3. Next, push one styro block into one elbow piece and do the same for
one end of the “T” piece. Push in far enough so you leave enough room for the
straight pipe to fit in there later.
Apply a thick coat of silicone sealant on
top of the block, and around the sides of it. Allow it to set up, then apply a
second coat. The idea is, you want it totally blocked off so no moisture can get
Tip: do not use PVC cement for this. It melts the styrofoam. You can trust me on this one, too 😉
Okay, time to glue up the back rail. For this,
use the 31” & 2” pieces of straight pipe, and the “T” piece with the “block”
glued in one side. Do not put the elbows on at this time. Make sure you put the
T-piece on with the “block side” towards the outside, the 2” piece. This is how
it should be assembled:
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