Hydroponic seeds

1. Moisten the starter cubes with water.
    
2. Insert seeds into the cube holes. For tomato, peppers, cukes, eggplants, basil, broccoli and cabbage, use 2 seeds per cube; for herbs, 6-8 seeds per cube. Start a couple more cubes of each type of crop than you intend to keep, so you can select the best.
    
3. Place in the nursery tray and keep warm (70-80 degrees). Water every day or two by adding "seedling solution" to the pan, not the cubes. [Use 1/2 strength nutrient solution mix. If you use GH Flora Nutrients, mix up a batch of "seedling solution" in a one-gallon milk jug; using 1/4 tsp. of each of the three solution mixes (micro, gro and bloom) to one gallon of water.]
    
4. Voila! They will start sprouting in a couple days. Once up and running, cut off the extras and leave only the best seedling in each cube. (Thin out the weaker/spindly/slow-growers).
    
5. When to transplant? When the plant is a 2-3 inches tall, with 4 leaves, and roots start to show thru the sides of the cubes. This usually takes 1-3 weeks. Peppers and tomatoes can take up to 4 weeks.

TRANSPLANT INTO THE HYDRO UNIT:

Hydroponic seeds

Once your babies are ready to graduate to the big hydroponic unit, it helps to gradually get them used to the new climate. "Harden them off" if they are going outside or to a greenhouse, to stronger light and cooler temps. If you want to "keep it simple", just skip this step, your plants should still survive.

But if you are transplanting to an indoor hydro setup, you must break them in to the warmer temp and new intense light system or you will burn them up. Start by keeping the lamps way up high at first, then every few days you can lower it 'til you are about 18-24" above the crops. If you start the tender babies directly under the hot lights, they will shrivel up and die. I know cause I've done it.

Transplant the cubes directly into the ponics unit. You do not remove from the starter plugs. Just dig a little hole in the hydro medium and plug in the cube. It's great, you don't disturb the roots, they grow right on through. When you first transplant to the hydro unit, top water them daily the first week with nutrient solution. This guarantees they won't dry out before the roots get a chance to reach down toward the juice. A turkey baster works great for this.
 

                          


 A SHORT CUT

Hydroponic seeds

Now, for the really easy, keep-it-simple, jump-start method for planting your hydro garden!

It's happened to me... there you are, walking through the garden section of Home Depot. Lookin' for seed packets... what a variety... Then it happens... you glance over at the vegetable seedlings. Nice fat, juicy plump seedlings...

Hard to pass by, right? You can actually start your hydroponics garden from store-bought seedlings, however, there are the disadvantages to going this route:

• Much more expensive. If you are looking to make your hydro garden cost-effective, this is not the way to go.
   
• All the textbooks tell you to never use store-bought seedlings with hydroponics. Must be a reason.
   
• Limited varieties. Hydroponic seeds open up a vast world of interesting and tasty cultivars. Seedlings, you are limited to what they got on the shelf that day.
   
• Danger of diseases or pest infestation. Aphids run rampant in plant nurseries, and they are really hard to see, so you bring them home without even knowing it. There are also viruses and soil-borne diseases which you could infect your entire garden with. Some which may be difficult to eradicate.
   
• Some plants do not "rough transplant" well. They don't survive the root rinsing necessary for this method. Plants which do well for this: Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower.
   
• Plants which do not take kindly to their roots being rinsed off: Beans, peas, lettuce, herbs, squash, melons. These should be started from hydroponic seeds.

Still determined to buy store-bought seedlings? Then take these precautions:

• Buy a spray bottle each of: Safer Insecticidal Soap and Houseplant and Garden Spray (or any brand of Pyrethrin or Rotenone). These are the safest of insecticides.
  
  
                 
   
• Before you ever even take them into the grow room, put the seedlings in the kitchen sink and literally saturate the plants in each spray, letting them dry between the sprays. Make sure to reach the upper and lower sides of all the leaves, stems, everything. Hopefully by now you have de-loused them!
   
• Ready to transplant? Break off the peat pots or carefully pull the seedlings from the plastic beds. Do this one at a time so the roots don't dry out.
   
• Carefully remove most of the soil from the root ball, trying to keep as much root intact as possible.
   
• Hold roots under warm running water and rinse away almost ALL of the soil. You can leave a little blob of it, but not much, or it will drain into your vat of nutrients. You don't want mud in there.
   
• Dig a little hole in the hydro pot medium, insert the root ball and shore up the plant with medium. Might take a little propping til they "take root".
   

K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple, Simon) SAVING EXTRA SEED For your hydroponic garden, you will find that you only need a few of the seeds from each seed packet. Did you know that you can easily save the leftover seed for 3-4 years and not lose viability (ability to sprout)?   Here's how: Keep them in the original packet, fold over and over   to close packet tightly. Place all the packets in a clean, dry mayo jar,   (or triple bag them in ziploc bags). Place some silica gel (like you find   in beef jerky) or pour a tablespoon of dry powdered milk in a tissue   and fold it up, this does the same thing. Close the jar tightly and   store in the refrigerator (not freezer). Easy and economical!